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Kraken G12 Install on 1080 Ti Fe with pictures
Can I reattach the Heatsink back onto the motherboard somehow?Performance results of the MEG Z Ace is generally close to its compatriots, though slower in some regards. Using the default settings, the board ran the CPU at 4.
Overclocking was painless and let our 5. Gone is the multi-tiered chipset heatsink, replaced by a much better-looking implementation that covers more of the PCB. All three M. The metal is a dark grey with a brushed-aluminum finish featuring gold highlights, labels and a small MSI gaming dragon. An RGB lighting zone with the Ace name shining through is integrated within the chipset heatsink. The large shroud covering the rear IO hardware and left VRM heatsink continues the brushed-aluminum look.
There is quite a bit going on with the top half of the board. On the far right side of the board is another fan header that makes a total of eight and the pin ATX connector. These will light up and turn off during the POST process. If the system hangs, the LED where it is stuck will stay lit, which helps with troubleshooting. Last on the far right is a front-panel USB 3.
The VRM heatsinks are connected via a flat heat pipe in order to better manage the heat load. Looking at the bottom half of the board, the audio portion is mostly covered up by a shroud, except for a few of the Nichicon audio capacitors. The dedicated headphone amplifier can drive headphones with up to ohm impedance. The integrated audio solution, for most users, will be sufficient.
The bottom slot is fed from the chipset and supports x4 speeds. In addition to the full-length slots are two x1 slots connected via the chipset as well. Also on the bottom half of the board are all three M.
On the far right of the motherboard, we find a front-panel USB 3.
Below the SATA ports are several headers that are mostly used for extreme overclocking. There is a jumper to enable slow mode, low temperature booting, force bios entry and retry jumpers. The bottom edge of the Ace is loaded with headers and buttons that cover audio, lighting, fan control, USB and more.
Below is a list of these headers and jumpers from left to right. The rear IO is full of connectivity, plus a few holes. The latter are cut out of the rear IO plate designed to help feed the small fan hidden beneath the shroud for VRM cooling. Above that we see both the Intel GbE and the Realtek 2. The MEG Z Ace does not have a video output, which means a discrete video card is required to use this motherboard.
Current page: Features and Specifications. Home Reviews. Against Board aesthetics are polarizing. Image 1 of 3 Image credit: MSI. Image 2 of 3 Image credit: MSI. Image 3 of 3 Image credit: MSI. See all comments 0.Join us now! Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username? Haven't received registration validation E-mail? User Control Panel Log out.
Forums Posts Latest Posts. View More. Recent Blog Posts. Recent Photos. View More Photo Galleries. Unread PMs. Essentials Only Full Version. New Member. So I pretty much never post to forums so forgive me if I am breaking some rules or in the wrong thread, however there is almost no information on doing this mod with the Kraken G12 at the time of writing this so I thought I would share in case it will help anyone attempting the same thing.
Keep in mind that everyone's setup is different, so I'm not responsible if you attempt this and break something. Here is the finished product Ignore the messy wiring, I will deal with that later.
I didn't originally plan on doing a write up so I don't have any pictures of the tear-down, however I recommend checking out the Gamer's Nexus video on youtube for the TI FE for a guide on removing the cooler in one piece. Once I had my card down to the PCB, I placed my stock thermal pads back on the old cooler, removed the old thermal paste from the GPU, and began installing my own heatsinks onto the card.
You may be able to get away with not using heatsinks at all since the G12 has a fan for this purpose and the VRM components can handle alot of heat, but I decided to be cautious and use them anyway. I used arctic thermal pads from amazon, One 50mmx50mmx1mm and One 50mmx50mmx. The thermal tape that comes with the heatsinks may be sufficient, but there was no information on its conductivity so I opted to replace it. Something to remember is to be careful not to short anything out with the metal heatsinks, I made sure that the thermal pads were covering the entire bottom of the heatsink to prevent this.
Make sure to firmly press your heatsinks on so that they don't fall off as well, and clean off any residue from the old thermal pads as it will prevent the new ones from sticking. I used Arctic MX-4 as it is not electrically conductive which will keep you from frying your card if paste gets on any exposed circuitry.
The G12 includes two foam spacers that its instructions will tell you to apply to the bracket before mounting it to the card, but I found that they put an unnecessarily high amount of strain on the PCB in my setup almost to the point of causing damage and I personally recommend leaving them out on this specific card unless your components are touching the G12 somehow. DO NOT tighten the screws until they stop or you run the risk of cracking your GPU die, you just want the screws to be snug and evenly tight.
If the coldplate looks crooked or the screws are unevenly tightened, I recommend backing them out until they barely catch the threads and slowly tightening them a couple turns at a time in a star pattern.
I don't have any pictures of the card assembled outside of the case or of installing it, as I didn't plan on doing a write up, but make sure before hand that you will be able to fit the components in your case, as my huge Cryorig R1 prevented me from mounting my radiator as a top or rear exhaust as I had originally planned, and I was forced to mount it to the front intake fans using XSPC radiator mounts I had bought from Amazon, which is definitely not an ideal setup.Your question may be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who purchased this item, who are all part of the Amazon community.
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Verified Purchase. These worked perfect on my Dell XPS 15 I used these to cool down several VRM to keep my laptop from throttling down. These are the perfect size for laptop use. Thank you for your feedback. Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again. Haven't had one fall off in 5 months after moving the card around. Perfect for the small vrm on my ti with kraken g I've had them sticking while hanging upside down now for around 5 months Moved my card between two cases since then and haven't had a single one fall off.
They're small and finicky to work with but they do work fine. It may be expected with a hot GPU constantly being heat cycled but I can no longer recommend these for GPU applications unless you're willing to replace the thermal adhesive pads. I have some better adhesive pads but havent applied yet. Somewhat dissapointed because I will have to remove the kraken G12 and card to re-apply these when otherwise its been working like a charm. The thermal pads are applied very precisely - no crooked ones.
Make sure to press for a few seconds and give it some time to adhere. Upon closer inspection of the listing after obtaining the item, I have found that there is no thermal adhesive included on the product.
The heatsink sizes seem to be as expected.Your question may be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who purchased this item, who are all part of the Amazon community. Please make sure that you've entered a valid question. You can edit your question or post anyway.
Please enter a question. Skip to main content. Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
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Have a question? There was a problem completing your request. Please try your search again later. Compare with similar items. Product information Technical Details. See questions and answers. Customer reviews. How does Amazon calculate star ratings? Amazon calculates a product's star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness.
Review this product Share your thoughts with other customers. Write a product review.MSI, in a blog posthave compared the heatsink design on their motherboards to ASUS's board implementations, calling their own solution a much better performer.
While there's some merit to MSI's comparison, we need to provide more details on whether this comparison makes real sense and would it matter to regular consumers or not.
First thing's first, the comparison being done here is better the budget tier B motherboards so we are talking about an Intel platform. And since this is a B platform, we should not expect to equip any of these with an unlocked processor as overclocking is restricted on these boards, so a waste of cash if you're thinking about doing that.
To fully support these processors in the best way possible and to ensure maximum stable CPU operation, motherboard makers implement a range of solutions which include good VRMs for smooth power delivery and decent heatsinks.
Nothing extravagant on the budget series as they don't offer huge returns to the companies as high-end products do. The other side of the story is that while good VRMs is a must for smooth operation, a good number of VRMs is also not a bad thing to implement on motherboards.
As you know, as the load is put on the individual VRMs, they run hot. You can diminish this by having more power phases so each can modulate power signals through their chokes and MOSFETs individually, hence lowering the load on the entire phase array.
Still, you require a good cooling solution on motherboards. MSI calls it the extended heatsink and this design is seen on their entire current generation Intel and AMD platform motherboards. However, we need to consider some things before saying all is great with this comparison. Most such motherboards aren't equipped with a high-end chip and in such cases, the differences in performance would be really minute.
They are close to cheap plastic brackets rather than actual metallic or copper based solutions we used to see in the past. Looking at their high-end segment, we can see some really good heatsink designs that make use of actual fin stacks for proper heat channeling.
In a way, the high-end market, especially powerful platforms like the HEDT ones from Intel and AMD have paved the way for some major design overhauls which we can see coming to the mainstream platforms in the coming years.PIMP YOUR VRM COOLING [de]
Overall, we expect the coming years to see major changes in board designs across the budget and high-end markets as the core count and clock speeds keep pushing higher.
By Hassan Mujtaba. Share Tweet Submit. Do you expect to see major motherboard design changes in the coming years? I am fine with current designs. Subscribe to our newsletter.Performance is up there with the more expensive boards, and the VRMs held their own even when overclocked.
But while the Tomahawk used to be more of a budget entry, the MAG B Tomahawk steps up its game to include more premium features like phase power delivery and 2. About the only thing missing is integrated Wi-Fi. There were no significant outliers in the result, but in general it seems to lean toward the faster side of our recent B test group.
While overclocked, the board ran the CPU at 4. The Tomahawk behaved well throughout all tests, chopping through the benchmarks with ease. This accessory stack is sparse, but will get you started.
The PCB is black with the board using grey and black heatsinks, along with grey stenciled lines sweeping diagonally through the motherboard. Outside of that, and the B model losing the chipset fan, those boards look remarkably similar. The RGB lighting is housed under the chipset heatsink, illuminating the bottom half of the board with bright saturated colors.
eBay Motherboard - Heatsink Fell Off (VRM?) - Is it still ok?
Zooming in to the top half of the board, the dominant feature is the large VRM heatsink on the left side. Typically, these heatsinks are covered by a shroud, but here, the shroud is actually part of the heatsink. Across the top edge to the left of the VRM heatsink is a single 8-pin EPS connector, which is fine for ambient overclocking. If there are any issues in these areas, the light that corresponds to the specific POST issue will stay lit, pinpointing where the system is currently stuck.
While not as informative as a regular debug LED, this is still very helpful. This setup is plenty capable of handling our Ryzen 9 X at stock and while overclocked. In the middle of the board are two full-length PCIe slots and two x1 sized slots. The top M. The bottom M. Note if there are devices in M.